To you and your doctor:
It’s not that the waves of Ocean City, New Jersey aren’t powerful enough to maim. I once dropped in at 7th street on a somewhat longer, wider shortboard than I’d normally ride, and stiffer due to some repairs I’d made. I didn’t make the drop all the way on only a 5 or 6-foot wave (barely half what you were surfing), got pitched from the lip (which throws forward pretty well at 7th street). The force of the lip on my board was large enough to bend the bone in my right leg almost to snapping, leaving a bruise around the bone for 9 months. I could feel the bone in my leg about to snap, before my leg bone rebounded and I was pitched like a slingshot. You know what Greg Noll says, “Don’t mess with the water”.