I flew home from PR on May 5th.  It is a pretty flat in Rincon this time of the year.  It is flat in Jersey too, but is the season of tourists and time to make some money.  When I arrived in Newark it was 80 degrees, which is perfect weather to come back to from the tropics.  The waves were flat though so there was nothing to rush home to.  The weather dropped a coupe days later and the waves stayed flat so my excitement of being home ended quickly.  I was home for Mother’s Day so of course would rather be no where else than with my mom.  I still have the island fever of relaxing and have been staying out of the scene of summer mayhem.  Only with no waves it has been getting very boring.

Finally yesterday we had some swell.  Nothing epic, but enough to get excited about.  I actually was more amped than usual.  I made my usual calls of making plans to get a session in with the boys.  I made a call to Jamie M only to get sent right to his voicemail.  I knew he was thinking about getting a ticket to Mexico, but never heard a definite answer.  When he didnt answer his phone the night before I knew he had gone.  Damn him.  Joining Zack and Rich, I knew they were going to score some real barrels.

Brad took the place of Jamie and we dawn patrolled  with Rob Kelly.   Joe Reighn joined us to shoot some photos before he had to go to school.  It was cloudy with a little north wind bump, but it cleaned up fast and was super shallow.  It was nice to get some beach break mini barrels again.  Water was still a little chilly.  You didn’t need gloves, which is a huge plus with body movement.  It makes it easier just to catch waves and conserve some energy while paddling.

I have been under the weather since I have been home so I was only able to surf once.  I still managed to surf over two hours and catch a shit load of waves.  It was crowded first thing, but that just comes with this time of the year.  Everyone is finishing school and the water is warming up.  Luckily it was a southeast swell with northwest winds so it was super peaky and waves were breaking everywhere.  Spreads out the crowd.  Hopefully waves will start to come in more consistently.

photo.joe.reighn