My quiver on this trip consisted of a 5’7 Lost Stealth and a 5’11 Timmy Patterson.  It was the perfect duo for down here.  Tina cam down here with no board because she would be saving the $150 charge for only the couple days she was here.  Of course I let her borrow my board and saw her surf amazing.  I was really happy for her, until she brought the board back with no fin or fin box.  Luckily it is hard for me to get pissed especially at Tina so it really wasn’t that big of a deal.  I really couldn’t get mad at all because it was actually Chris Kelly’s board that he let me bring down.  Right before we left our rental I was already getting low on cash.  The board was useless to me at this point so I sold it to Reagan, who fixed it up and sold it again.  Sorry Quizzy, I owe you.  I did have money out of the situation to get me home.  When I made the decision to cancel my ticket I had mentioned funds were low.  Everyone had left and Warls and myself were left on the island staying with Jacques and Cora until I moved into my room.

Now at this time the partying had mellowed out and it was all about the surf and relaxation.  We had a bunch of fun little swells with minor crowds because it was on the windy side.  When I say on the windy side, I mean 5 mph with a little side chop.  You can get pretty spoiled here with all world class surf, but a little wind in New Jersey would be epic so we were always out there.  Now funds were getting really low and I made the decision to sell my only board, that was working insane.  There wasn’t much for swell in the forecast so I thought hell with it, I need to eat.  I sold it to a local that had been hanging with us for a lot of our trip.  Carlito is from San Juan who moved to Rincon to get in the surf scene with his friend David.  These kids are classic and good surfers.  Carlito had a piece of shit log that was so excited to have a white, light board and that was cool to see his so amped.  So I am officially in PR to surf and do not have a board.  I wasn’t stressing because I am still in PR and love everything else about it besides the surf.

At this point we lucked out with Stefen asking Warls to watch his house while Summer, the baby and him go to Florida for a couple days.  I was invited to join Warls so we could give Jacques and Cora some alone time at their apartment.  Stefen and Summer’s house is amazing and Warls and I appreciate to accommodations.  During our stay there I was able to talk Carlito into leting me use his old board until I figured out what I was going to do about a board.  He was all good with the idea so I was ready for the next swell.  A swell eventually came and it was really fun.  They called the waves to be pretty big, but came up a little shy.  It was still overhead, clean, warm, and sunny.  The reason for me staying here!!  We shot photos with Mark Buondonno.  It was hard to get good ones because this board, I shit you not, weighed about 50 lbs.  I managed to get a couple though and had a blast trying to make this board work.  I had a good turn on what should have been my wave in, but was too excited and needed one last wave.  DUMB.  I bashed my ankle on the board or reef.  It scraped it up a little and it started to swell instantly.  I was again out of the water with an injury.

No waves were in the forecast for about a week so my ankle was able to heal without any stressing on wanting to surf.  By this time I received word from Monica that she was coming back for a visit and was going to bring a board for me from home.  It was perfect to think she was coming back down to hang and was bringing one of my boards that I knew would work.  Thanks Mon, you’re the best!

Old boards suck

Old boards still suck