If you know anything about Puerto Escondido, then you probably are aware that a majority of the surfing that happens there does so without a leash. Why would you want to surf macking 20 foot bombs without a leash attaching you to your board, you ask? Well, for one you don’t want that board thrashing wildly underwater only 6 feet from you head. With a leash you get the comfort of being able to rapidly recover you board after falling on a wave, but you also keep a heavy, sharp surfboard within striking distance of your body or your head at all times. Another major factor for not wearing a leash is broken boards. Nine times out of ten boards break in bigger surf because the leash tugs on the board with such force or in a such weird angle that the board snaps right in half. Puerto Escondido is notorious for this. Finally, let’s face it, surfing heavy surf without a leash is a right of passage for the watermen that train for surviving those kinds of conditions. When you fall you are gonna be swimming. You will deal with strong rip currents, detonating waves in the impact zone, and long endurance style swims to the beach only to grab your board and head right back out. Honestly, it’s exhausting, but it’s rewarding both mentally and physically.

Recently, Zack and I were down in Puerto so we got to experience all of this first hand. Not a first for either of us, but it was the first time Zack got footage of what it’s like to have your board wash all the way to the beach. With his GoPro camera attached to the board you get live the experience through the eyes of the surfboard. Watch the video and see what it’s like!