Well, here we are. Another week has gone by and this spring season still has yet to deliver anything significant to wave starved surfers in the area. It’s times like these I’m glad that I make the most of any swell that comes our way. On days when the waves are firing (or even marginal for that matter) I find myself surfing as much as I can and for as long as I can. My friends know this well as I frequently stay out as long as I physically can or surf full sessions even when the waves don’t look overly enticing to the average ocean goer. That being said, it’s times like these that I’m glad I do take full advantage of swells because I know inside that I don’t take those swells for granted – a quality that I think is ingrained in east coast surfers a little more than everyone else.
Anyway, here is a perfect example of a day where I felt like I needed to make the most of what mother nature threw my way. This is the only real wave I feel like I surfed all month. Andrew Gesler and I had stuff to do during this day but we both blew everything off (as surfers commonly do) and surfed two 3 hour sessions. The waves weren’t epic by any standards but they were playful and just enough to let loose on a couple times. So, the next time you catch yourself saying, “I think I’m going in”, paddle back out and catch a couple more because you never know when the next 3 week flat spell will creep its way into your life.
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