Posts Tagged ‘surf photos’

This is Why I Surf – Andy Irons

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

This video is for anyone that has ever lost their way or has lost touch with why they surf. Andy Irons has been in the professional surfing spotlight for over a decade and has had his ups and downs over the years. One year he’s the world champ; the next year he’s in rehab. It’s crazy to think how someone that has everything most people only dream about can experience such inner turmoil, but it just goes to show that material belongings don’t always bring happiness. In this case, and in many others, the simple act of surfing may bring more happiness than anything else in the world. Keep surfing people…your inner self will thank you.

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The Best Cure for Jet Lag

Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

Bali …



video stills @shannwilliams

Surf Photographers being put to Shame

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

Keenan’s new post about Modern Collective really got me reflecting on the overall lack of really creative work coming from the surfing media.  I’ve been following the progress of that film very closely as I thought it was a unique approach to film making, as well I was confident that the action and production would be insane.

These thoughts were also stirred up by a post on a blog I frequently read posted by an Art Buyer based in Canada.  She has a ton of great stuff pertaining to commerical photography, but usually never anything pertaining to action or more specifically surfing photography.  However when I checked in the other day, I noticed that her guest Mark Zibert had given a shout out to Dustin Humphrey.  D. Hump’s work was cited as #1 on Mark’s top 10 list of creative influence.  I thought that was not only pretty damn cool, but really deserved by D. Hump.   He is undoubtedly, far and away, the single most creative person in the surf photo world at the moment.  He seems to consistently be the one setting the bar higher and higher, in addition to using new technologies, finding new angles, and time and again producing the most amazing surf photos I’ve ever seen.

To be quite honest, I’ve dropped out of the loop on up to the minute surf photo industry news due to a little bit of apathy for the whole thing, but at the same time I do feel like I have at least one finger on the pulse of what’s going on.  Beyond Hump, there is a handful of people really pushing things.  For the past decade and more, Steve Sherman has been the king of classic surf portraiture and I feel like his absence from Surfing Mag has really helped him focus on his own photography in a positive direction.  In Sherm’s wake Pete Taras has established himself as the photo editor who will make and break a magazine.  In the early 2000′s, his work at Transworld made that magazine the hands-down best place to see the sickest photography pertaining to surfing.  At the time, Surfing was doing well, however Transworld just thad that modern and progressive edge, but resisted being super cheesey or cliche.  As soon as Taras left Transworld to become photo editor at Surfing, Transworld’s quality dropped off, and Surfing’s became phenomenal – not a coincidence.  Jimmy Wilson’s presence as Tara’s assistant editor has been felt too – no longer do average front lit straight from the beach with a 600mm shots make the first round cut like they did in the 90′s.  Jimmy knows what he thinks is good work, he knows what he hates, and he will always be brutally honest.  Luckily, for the most part,  Jimmy and I stand on the same side of the fence as to what constitutes well made, creative, or progressive surf photos. This team: D.Hump, Sherm, Taras, and Jimmy  is really the force that drives photographers to achieve more than just “good enough” photos.

I sure as hell don’t claim to be producing the best work around.  Not by a long shot, not compared to even people in Jersey or Ocean City for that matter.  However, I do feel like I have a valid opinion as this is something that I’m obviously passionate about and have been studying for well over a decade now.  In the hopes of educating, inspiring and lighting a fire under the collective ass of the surf media world, here are a few photos/videos/things I want to share.

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D. Hump’s campaign for Insight.  I think I read/heard somewhere that it was composited images – which makes sense to me not only for the difficulty in execution, but I noticed a few of the bizzare depth of field issues that plague many photo-composites.  Still an amazing concept and the fact that its debateable as to whether its composited or not means he did a damn good job.   See more of his work at ReelSessions.com.
©Dustin Humphrey

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Cole Barash is a young (pretty sure hes 22 now) snowboarding photographer who absolutely dominates his field.  I’m always driven when I see people younger than I producing work that is better than almost everyone else in their field.  This kid is amazing: action, portraits, lifestyle, and even his writing ain’t bad.  ColeBarash.com.

© Cole Barash

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Fred Mortagne.  I’ve seen his work before and noticed how well he integrates architecture and geometry into his photos, but I’m not up to date on his current work, nor do I really follow him.  But, his photos show how skate and snowboard photographers often produce more interesting photos than surf photogs due to the limitations (physical or creative) that surfing presents.  FrenchFred.com

© Fred Mortagne

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DanielBlom.com – Snowboarding – Kills it. (No more writeups – post is getting too long).

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Fully Flared – Skate Video also in Zibert’s top 10 – Most insane intro I’ve ever seen to a skate film.  ”Yeah Right!” is another Girl video which really pushed what skate films could be with their invisble board and pass off montages.
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Similar use of high speed, high quality footage, Quicksilver is promoting the “Vision Research Cam” which will allow viewers to breakdown surfing action like never before.  Watching this shot of Dane Reynolds boosting is simply amazing.  Although its more of an exploit of new technology than someone getting “creative” its cool nonetheless.YouTube Preview Image

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MarkZibert.com – Mentioned earlier in post – overall creative commercial photographer.

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HeatherMorton.ca – Art Buyer blog – Original post referenced in paragraph 1.

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So there is my attempt at a short post – better luck next time I guess.

Working with Joe Reighn Part 2

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

After meeting once and getting a couple photos we met again on some better conditions all around.  It was still small and I wasn’t planning on surfing, but Joe hooked up the call and said there was fun little surf.  This time the sun was out which is always a plus for the photographer.  Even at my age I still like to get out as much as possible.  I do work a lot which can slow me down, but if it is ridable I am usually still out there.  For Joe to power through our small sessions makes it more fun because you still might be able to come up with a rad photo.  Thanks Joe, keep up the amp!!  

AllieOOPS

AllieOOPS

 

CLOUDS

CLOUDS

 

KRail

KRail

 

the GOODS

the GOODS

Working with Joe Reighn..Part 1

Monday, October 5th, 2009

 

Joe Reighn is a 16 year old Junior at Ocean City High School.  Much talent has attended the school throughout the years in surfing.  Joe is going a different path in the industry as a photographer.  At such a young age Joe has been around shooting photos for a couple years in and out of the water.  As a student its hard to get to travel and get those misto days to get those epic photos.  I recently caught up with Joe on a small fun day with Andrew Gesler to see what we could get.  The more you work with a photographer the better the photos get.  I been working with Rich Mcmullin for years now and we have scored some great shots.  You get that comfort of their style and become a team.  I plan on working with Joe as much as possible as long as we are around the area together.  

 

joereighn@comcast.net / 609.602.8691

 

GeslAIR

GeslAIR

 

KRail

KRail

 

Bogg

Bogg

Gold Coast Success

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

My previous post chronicled the first part of my recent mission to the fabled land of 10 second tubes known as the Gold Coast. If you remember, I was starting out in Sydney, which is supposed to be an 11 hour drive away from the 3km stretch of sand know as the Superbank, and I was trying to meet up with a massive winter-time low that was pushing 20-30 foot seas right into Australia’s east coast. It was more or less a last minute decision to pull the trigger and charge the drive because the forecasts were changing every two seconds leading up to the swell event. There was a really good chance that the swell was going to be huge and washed out with out of control gale force winds. I decided the night before to wing it (hey you only live once, right?). The drive up the coast turned out to be a hellish nightmare testament of mental fortitude as a cyclone engulfed over 600 miles worth of Australian coastline, forcing highway closures and massive detours. After 20 odd hours later, we finally made it to Coolangatta with hopes of waking up and catching solid surf the next day, but since we arrived at night time we had no indication what to expect for the morning. 

That next morning I anxiously awoke at daybreak to check out what mother nature was serving up. My first glance at waves from my balcony produced a sigh of relief immediately. HUGE steamrollers barreling down the Rainbow Bay section of the bank – and despite sketchy forecasts calling for onshores, the wind was actually offshore! Frantically, I ran down to the beach for a better look.

The morning view from my balcony. Jackpot.

The morning view from my balcony. Jackpot.

The ocean was still angry with 15 foot plus bombs coming through and a current that resembled a river more than anything else. Since the storm was pulling away from the coast at this point and conditions were expected to improve throughout the day, I decided to save my strength for a long afternoon session. And what a payoff it would be. My friend Ryan and I decided to paddle out around 2pm despite only having seen a handful of people attempt going out (which is shocking considering the Superbank plays host to one of the largest surf crowds in the world on any given day). 

 

Bombs rolling through way outside

For those of you who don’t know, the Superbank is comprised of 4 different sections, starting with Snapper Rocks then transitioning into Rainbow Bay and Greenmount, before finally reaching the infamous section of Kirra. I knew the paddle was going to be intense, but I just hoped to get into position in time to catch some freight trains down at Kirra. Sure enough, after 30 minutes of paddling and getting steamrolled by nonstop walls of whitewater, I finally got myself into position and swung around for the first good one I saw. An airdrop and a massive, long drawn out bottom turn set me up for a beautifully groomed 12 foot wall that looked more like J-Bay then Kirra. Surfing a perfect wave is the most surreal thing in the world and that’s exactly what this wave was. Perfect. Feeling the power of the ocean beneath your feet and eyeing up an endless wall as it races into the sunset is nothing short of euphoric. And after six massive carves, a floater-air-drop, and a closeout re-entry for good measure my smile was officially ear to ear. 

The next couple of days produced similar results. Although the recent cyclone wreaked havoc on some of the sandbars from Snapper to Greenmout, Kirra could be described as nothing short of perfect. As the swell trailed off a couple of days later, the torch was seamlessly passed on to the neighboring beach break of D’bah where 8-10 foot peaks rolled in relentlessly before eventually subsiding back to “average” standards a week later. 

Seven days and 50,000 calories later, it was over. I thought my arms were going to fall off but I couldn’t have been more stoked. It seemed too good to be true honestly. When I originally decided to roll the dice and drive up I thought I might be lucky to catch one epic day, but instead I got six! Mission: successful

Kirra looking quite inviting

Kirra looking quite inviting

More Kirra. God, I love this place...

More Kirra. God, I love this place...

Snapper Rocks getting...well...Rocked.

Snapper Rocks getting...well...Rocked.

D'bah keeping the dream alive

D'bah keeping the dream alive

 

Yes, it was worth the 20 hour drive

Yes, it was worth the 20 hour drive

Dee Why Point Lights Up

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

It’s days like yesterday that make my surfing world go ’round. A new round of solid 6-8 foot groundswell graced the east coast of Australia over the last couple of days and pretty much everywhere was going bananas. With offshore winds in place all day, yesterday saw the best of the swell event and I was sure to pull a sunrise to sunset surf marathon. While a lot of my surfing in this area has been done around the town of Narrabeen, I have been been pushing my comfort zone more and more after meeting up with a local photographer over here who has been willing to help show me around and take me to other spots that are notoriously guarded by brash locals.

One of these notorious spots is Dee Why Point. Home to many A-list pros, including WCT veteran Toby Martin, this is a place where you want to bring the best of your abilities to the table. There’s nothing more embarrassing than paddling out on a stickered up board, fighting your way into position, and eating shit dropping in on a bomb – well, unless your trunks were to fall off in the process…that would be more embarrassing. So, right off the bat before you even step foot in the water Dee Why already presents itself as an intimidating place. But when properly angled swell ledges and heaves over this unforgiving reef the rewards that await make you forget all about any possible hesitation one might have. 

So here I will present you the following steps toward getting yourself a successful session at Dee Why Point.

Step 1: Get on it early. Show up at the car park (fancy Aussie slang for parking lot) before sunrise suited up and ready to go. Despite it being a weekday, it will continue to get more and more crowded throughout the day, defying all typical logic that people will be working in the middle of the day. Does anyone know the unemployment rate over here? I’m gonna go out on a limb and say 100%.

Step 2: Run down the stairs, across the rocks, passed the die hard old folk swimming laps in the rock pool, time the sets, and jump in. If you unsuccessfully time the sets go to the hospital – your are bleeding. Come back another day and repeat step 1.

Step 3: Try not to make eye contact and make your way out to “suck rock”. This is the main take off point for those confident in their capabilities. Here you will see mutant waves suck off a reef ledge the way water sucks off of rocks in a whitewater rapid. These mutants, however, quickly grow and turn into walls of ocean throwing over you. Be prepared to drop off of many stairs on the way down or to air drop the entire way down. Oh, and be damn sure not to fall. You are literally dropping in about 10 feet from some curiously jagged rocks. If you didn’t make it passed step 3 it’s either because you got punched in the face by a local, or got caught inside by a bomb set. Either way, go to the hospital – you are bleeding. Repeat from step 1.

Step 4: Pick out the wave you want, swing around and go. Paddle you ass off underneath the lip and just go. Take a moment to note the view below as you are paddling. You will see two things: brown to the left and blue to the right. The brown is the reef that lies a whole six inches under the water waiting to smash you and your board just because you looked at it funny. The blue is the deeper water just to the right of the reef that is the “face” of the wave. Do yourself a favor and stay towards the blue. Now, as I was saying paddle, stick the air drop, and pull in. This isn’t a recommendation, it’s your only course of action. I had the unfortunate pleasure of watching two guys in ten minutes screw this up. Their leashes broke and boards smashed into the rocks as they fought to make sure their faces didn’t carry out the same fate as their boards. Again, make the drop or do not pass GO and collect your two hundred dollars – go straight to the hospital as you are once again bleeding. Probably pretty profusely too. (Noticing the trend here?)

Step 5: To quote Tim Robbins’ character Andy Dufrane in Shawshank, “If you’ve come this far, maybe your willing to come a little further.” You’ve successfully made the drop, now just set your line and sit back – I mean stand tall – and proceed to get shacked off your ass. Enjoy the view of the sun rising over the headland in the distance, or chuckle to yourself as jealous people stare in at you from the shoulder wishing to be where you worked so hard to get to. Make sure to adjust for warbles in the wave as it will be tricky navigating the different sections of the tube. If you fudge this up, once again head to a hospital because you’re about to shoot yourself for F-ing it up. 

Step 6: Get spit out!

Step 7: Repeat. Be sure not to get cocky though as the wave loves to take people down a peg or twelve.

So yeah, the waves were epic. Barrels everywhere. Dee Why can be tough but it can also be worth it. That being said as the crowd got to max capacity I opted for surfing some other less crowded options.  The day flew by unfortunately, but not without branding my brain with a couple solid memories to pack away for the flat days that are sure to come as summer approaches.

Remember kids, don’t eat shit and you won’t die :)

 

Someone getting ready for step 4.

Someone getting ready for step 4.

 

Don't those rocks look friendly? The view from the water is much worse.

Don't those rocks look friendly? The view from the water is much worse.

Photos courtesy of Ja Mike Pjura, aka Jomo, aka my roommate. 

RIP Surf Photographer: 1945 – 2009

Monday, April 27th, 2009

The “Surf Photographer” is on his last life.  

There is no doubt that the magazine industry is crumbling.  Advertising is down, page count is lowering, assignment stories are rare, and readership is following suit.  People can’t wait for the news to come monthly anymore.  We use RSS readers to get the news fast, as it happens.  Instead of reading who won Bells in Surfer, we watch it live.  Instead of waiting for photos from Hawaii in the spring issues of Transworld, we just check out Surfline’s day-to-day coverage while we check our morning e-mails.  And instead of reading letters from Ed, we are getting our opinion pieces from a sexy avatar named “SunbatherBob” on our local surf forum site.   Not to mention Surfers Candy…

Rats scurry from ships, cockroaches somehow hide from nuclear war, and soon the surf photographer will have to adapt in order to survive the downfall of the medium that has traditionally provided his livelihood.  Clearly, we are seeing in our global recession, that in the years to come only the strong and resourceful will survive.  When I got a letter in the mail detailing how, for the first time, magazine editorial rates were being cut, I nearly punched a hole in the wall.  In a timely fashion, this letter arrived a week before the new issue of the mag hit the stands featuring a six page story with my photos.  Needless to say, the reduced check that arrived shortly there after didn’t exactly cover expenses for the trip.  In fact, it didn’t even cover my share of the rental car gas, let alone the airfare, excess baggage, and a bed to sleep on.  

I don’t blame the magazine brass for cutting the compensation for my photos.  They’re just doing what is necessary for them to survive as well.  Its nothing personal, just business.  The surf publishing industry is far from being the next UNICEF.  If you want to make a living, find another industry.  Surfline pays in membership subscriptions; surf shops pay in store discounts; and sponsors pay in clothing, wetsuits or boards.  None of which I can use to eat or live under.  A few years back, I had a sort of mentor style conversation with Art Brewer – one of the ‘godfathers’ of surf photography.  He explained to me the details of why the surf photography industry is bull shit and why he would never advise anyone to get involved in it.  At the time, I took his advice to heart, but didn’t follow it.  Years later, I now agree with him and am beginning to understand his point of view.

So now what.  I’ve invested the better half of a decade into this ‘profession’ and I’ll be damned if that was all for nothing.  Its time to adapt to survive.  I’ve picked up a much better paying job in the photography industry working the computers and lights on big budget advertising shoots.  I’ve started to write on this blog which has a direct relationship to the amount of money I make versus the frequency and quality of my posting.  (oh yeah, don’t forget to click on my ads on this page!)  I diversify where I’m sending photos and make sure I don’t deliver all the goods to once place unless its for a feature.  I never want to have another photo lay in the inbox of an editor only to be filled away into the never-never land that is a server.  

Selling photos of a grom:

  • A-grade photos to the magazines
  • B-Grade to the sponsors
  • C-grade to the parents.

A day of shooting is starting to remind me of the metaphor of sailors who hunt wales – not a single piece of that work should be wasted.  

In the order of making sure this doesn’t become a rant, I’m going to wrap this up quickly.  There will be another post to follow this one detailing where I think the future is headed for a surf photographer such as myself is headed.  Spoiler Alert: If you are resourceful and creative, you can use new ideas and technology to your advantage – its not all gloom and doom if you don’t want it to be.

Check in tomorrow with a fresh set of eyes.  In the mean time, heres an example of what I’m talking about with creativity and adaptation.

 

A problem is presented

A problem is presented

 

Creative minds find a solution

Creative minds find a solution

Images/Artwork via ABOVE

Anzac Day in Narrabeen

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

Yesterday was certainly a day to remember for any surfer lucky enough to have been on the East Coast of Australia. While all of Australia and New Zealand were busy celebrating one of their biggest national holidays, Anzac Day, surfers up and down the coast gorged themselves on the best swell of the 2009 season.

In Narrabeen I awoke at sunrise to see that the swell right out front had jacked up significantly overnight. Thanks to a strong low pressure system spinning away in the Tasman Sea over the past couple of days, beautifully groomed, long period swell was gracing the coastline with its presence. It reminded me of a perfect fall day in Jersey, except on steroids. With offshore winds forecasted all day, I waited for the tide to hit the perfect level and grabbed my 6’5 to tackle the 12-15 foot bombs that were rolling through. 

While there were a couple of tow teams out trying to gain the upper hand on the racy lines, I waited patiently for the ones that I could only describe as phenomenal. This was not a day to be pig-dogging in the pit. It was one of those magical days where you could stand straight up and have plenty of room to spare (the waves were almost exclusively lefts, putting me on my backside). Despite being absolutely smashed on a couple that I was too deep for, there were a couple of golden nuggets that are definitely going into my permanent memory bank. 

The swell dropped pretty fast with the tide going out and the wind blowing offshore all day, but there were still a couple around for the evening session. Unfortunately, my brother, Trevor, left to go back to the U.S. two days ago and wasn’t around to shoot it. But my friend Steve snapped the photos below during the evening session with my point-and-shoot camera so that I could at least show you something

I will say that these photos don’t do any justice for the morning session (it was about twice the size in the morning…no joke), but they are better than nothing. Hopefully, I can scrounge up some more photos as they surface in the upcoming days and pass them along. 

Giving my legs a stretch during the evening session

Giving my legs a stretch during the evening session

Me paddling

Me paddling

Evening freight train

Evening freight train

Another empty one...

Another empty one...

A parting shot...wish you were here!

A parting shot...wish you were here!

Welcome to Surfers Candy

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

Surfers Candy is an ongoing project that has been created to deliver premium surf-related content direct from professional surfers and photographers in a more casual environment than traditional surf media. The main goal is to provide viewers and readers with raw stories and photos that come straight from the mouths of a collection of hand-picked professional surfers and photographers. Each surfer and photographer creates, edits, and publishes his own entries, which means that what they see is what you see. No more lag time as you wait for magazines and other sites to publish content that happened months ago. There are too many good stories and photos that get wasted as they sit on the light table of an editor’s desk. So we are going to fix that and hopefully, this will provide a better window into the lives of these athletes and photographers.  Please remember, this is an interactive media so don’t be shy – leave comments! Thanks for visiting and enjoy!