Hurricanes, when they’re not bashing someones home, are the shit! Over-hype, beach tags, “prevention” lifeguarding, crowds, and bad wind are the buzz-kills in NJ that even Peter LaFleur couldn’t dodge, at least not all day. When everything comes together life is good, when it doesn’t, well you probably know too much…
Here's a good looking wave.. photo Rich McMullin
I can remember growing up, watching Jim Cantorre on the weather channel. Everything was simple then, local forecast on the 8′s, tropical update every hour, if the storm looked like it was coming close to the coast we were stoked, our home beach would be pumping! Even if it sucked, we didn’t know the difference, it WAS PUMPING!
Should I have driven south? photo:Moran
It’s different now. You can research ANYTHING these days. Swell direction, wind, unspoken-of nooks in the coastline, it’s maddening trying to pick a theory to surf to. With knowledge comes power, right? They never say, with knowledge comes the anxiety that you’re surfing the wrong spot, or that you’ve made the wrong call by driving away from waves, when it’s pumping at home, or vice-versa. They never talk about getting shacked while thinking I could be standing taller in the pit if I had driven another hour, or two, or four…
Where should we shred?
Well, that’s the truth of the matter, and that’s surfing. I guess all perspective based on what you’ve experienced, and what you haven’t. Surfers are always looking to step it up to bigger, wider pits and gnarlier maneuvers.. It’s only natural to be unsatisfied at times. Crap, who am I kidding. I got nothing to complain about, surfing in this age is FREAKIN SICK! Cheers to the boys who’ve found new spots for the shots last run, and here’s to the motivated mind I find again and again in our sport! Now that the clowns in red trunks and their “sackless, no-one in the water and nobody gets hurt” mentality have gone back to Ohio, round here it’s gonna be an interesting Fall!!! What are you plotting?
Some where else is pumping... photo:McMullin
“Now that the clowns in red trunks and their “sackless, no-one in the water and nobody gets hurt” mentality have gone back to Ohio, round here it’s gonna be an interesting Fall!!! What are you plotting?”
You’ve got me amped on fall and winter already, Q!
Damn man, good work. Especially the last two sentences HAH!
Soooo true. I think you summed up my last week pretty damn well. Hunting, searching, and ANXIETY about missing something somewhere else. Should I be in Nova Scotia? Maine? OBX? What the hell…. But then you get your first barrel of the session and it all goes away.
Yeah, good read. Honestly speaking of the anxiety you may face by finding the best wave. If you don’t even entertain to think such things you are destined to surfing the same waves. I agree this is a great time to be surfing.
Yea ill claim this to be one of the best post on SC, good work
The technology has killed it. Now everybody knows when and where to be. Nothing better than going to your home break and having to surf with 100 other people. Size used to stop the crowds as well but it doesn’t anymore. Even the winter cold doesn’t deter the crowds these days. How many remember sessions last winter after the snow storms with 60 guys out.
Andrew, Rob, Chris, and Jamie. I leaving in a week. Got a place on da north shore. 2 BR, hit me up, I got you guys any time. And gesler is right. I am pasuxxxx on da forum. u2u me. or bdubs/KR got my # if you guys dont.
PEACE
Gesler you got it right!
Fall means surf anywhere anytime!
Everything Everything!